This has/had a lot of potential, but is still pretty much in beta and on/off development.  http://playingcarddb.com/

I'm a sucker for art deco design, so I pledged for a Gold and the Empire LE.  It could be better or more ornate, but I'll take what I can get these days!  I'm not fully sold on the court art style, but there's enough elsewhere that I'm in for a couple.  Not sure 'horrible' is justified, they are good enough, although in most cases I don't think it's enough to justify the dollars for a simple tuck swap and coin.

I too looked at those empty tucks from MPC, but here in the midwest we have a hardware chain 'Menards' which at least in my local store sells them repackaged with new tucks for just $1.  I bought a few since for that price I just re-used the tuck for some in my collection case that don't have any and then wrapped a rubber band around the deck and tossed in the RV camper.  I figured for that price I may as well get a few more just to keep in the collection.  These are the rounded corner style and the tuck front is just a solid color with a cut out, the sides just say "Casino Played Cards" and "Las Vegas Style".  When in the case only the front shows so they are perfect for that.  Maybe look around for them in unusual places for them, but yeah the MPC is likely best option for plain tucks.  The shipping though.


NOTE - Ignore the STDM deck, that was from a different source

Super cool, looking forward to it.  Hopefully you will have details on what courts will look like and some teasers soon?  <nudge>

Quote from: Rose on June 18, 2014, 07:00:41 AM

Wow Ade, that's a great deck, I wonder if the number cards can be customized further without ruining the integrity. Perhaps the pips can be a bit more musical, or some sheet music background? But well done and Congratulations on completing the deck I know a few musical people who would really like this.

Thank you all;)

@Rose : I want the number cards looks clean, so I decided only customized the pips layout without a background and keep the pips simple 

I was actually going to say the same thing about shadowed sheet music in the background.  I just really feel sad for the number cards that look ordinary compared to the custom courts.  I do like the font and especially club style though, fits well with the theme.


I can't tell what the white things on the bottom of the mirrored violins are, but they kind of look like a banner?  Whatever it is, I would remove it since it looks odd and makes them look cut off.  If it or any other part is meant to be a chin rest I would remove it since it also distracts and chin rests are a recent invention and would not have been likely in use when most of these composers were alive. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinrest

Just realized I've been neglecting this thread.  Rather than post everything I picked up in the last 2-3 months, here's the more interesting ones.

I gotta say this has come a long way in short order.  It's very professional of you to receive the input and filter it for changes while remaining unemotional.  Glad you reached out and listened.  I really hope you make your goal, but believe if not this time it will be on a relaunch.  LOTS of time left though, I think you'll be just fine!   

My joker uncut just arrived, here's an image of the full sheet for your inspection.  Working today though, so no time for a proper layout and lighting.  Should be enough to see what is going on though.

From what I can tell, the deck has 26 jokers, each repeated twice. 

Somebody at UC said they contacted USPCC and they responded that it is 26 jokers which matches what the images appear to show and your analysis.  I'm keeping my order since it is still unique and fairly cheap, but I guess some are cancelling or not jumping in.  Considering I joined 808 primarily for this I'm quite annoyed by the misrepresentation.  A joker deck, especially an uncut should be all unique and actual jokers (non playable).  Seriously, how hard would it have been to do a separate run for the uncuts and a few full joker decks.  Then make another version numbered.   

Just FYI - I had noticed that this is not a TRUE Joker deck and was quite disappointing to see that.  This does make it playable, but sad.  That's pretty obvious if you're not looking at it with such excitement, but what you may have missed and others have pointed out is that there are repeating images.  Ugh, I'll still keep my order, but come on!!!  Such promise to be their greatest idea ever, but no.

It looks like this has been brought up a few times, but no response and threads locked.  Just wondering if that will happen?  Most if the other forums I am on use it and it sure makes it easier to keep up with them all in one place.  Thanks for the consideration.

http://tapatalk.com/activate_tapatalk.php?plugin=smf

Thanks for the how-to Rob and input from all the others!  I picked up a pair of the Hobby Lobby shadow boxes a week ago and over the past week completed the modifications.  The permanent display wall isn't yet built and the temporary one in my office requires removing some unused furniture first, so photo of them on the ground it is!  This is most of my small collection, just missing some plain and a few custom decks that are used for play and the uncut sheets.  Not to mention the HUGE list still on the way from KS and other places.  Going to have to make some decisions or build more of these I fear....

A few extra comments on the build process if it helps others.  My local hardware store didn't have hardwood trim in the style presented so I had to use pine screen molding which is obviously a bit softer and has 2 rounded edges.  I had a heck of a time lining up the holes and this wood REQUIRED pre-drilling to prevent splitting.  I found the trick to be measuring out uniform holes and drilling those on the back of the frame (remember drill from the FRONT side to keep up appearances - back will have 'exit wounds'), then inserting the bottom row of screws and using them to 'score' each pre-cut and painted shelf by pressing it against this row.  In that way I could use it as a template for the pre-drilling into each shelf.  To screw in each shelf I then did each screw in order partially and could use the pre-drilled hole to find the proper position.  Given the VERY limited margin for error on such a thin board (1/4 inch is all it can handle, would have preferred to go with 1/2 inch) this was important and I still had a few minor deviations that will require touch up paint if I get OCD enough about it. Once filled though you really only see the front so not a big deal.  I also removed the foam backing to allow more depth for the decks without being pressed against the glass.  I also then cut that backing into strips and placed on the edges of the frame in back which pushed the back of the frame out a bit to allow the cards and shelves to sit just a little deeper.