Updated again. Title updated as well.

First post updated. New auction for a lot of 6 decks.

First post updated. Last set available. Single decks on eBay are going for $27. 4 decks for $29.99 (or even $39.99) is a great deal.

Starting bid only $14.99. Shipping from Guam.  Shipping to US only.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271833977054

Auction only for 3 days.

Lot includes:
- Hotcakes Red w/ Modesty sleeve
- Bicycle Spectrum 1st Edition with Gold Seal
- Bicycle Warrior Horse
- Bicycle Thorn

Starting bid $51.99. Shipping from Guam. Shipping to US only.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271835100851

Willing to sell directly without bidding on a case by case basis. Please PM me.

Hi, I'm looking to either sell or trade the following decks:

Golden Spike Blank Ink (x10 available)- $18

Triplicate Set - $50
- Triplicate Standard.
- Triplicate 2nd. Ed.
- Triplicate LE
- Triplicate 2nd Ed.
- Triplicate Coin design #1
- Triplicate Coin design #2 (x2)

Looking for the following decks:
- Bohemia Red
- Bohemia Blue
- The Hive Set
- Bicycle Black Reserve Note
- Unbranded White Reserve Note
- Ornate Sapphire
- Ornate Emerald
- Ornate Amethyst
- Ornate Scarlet
- Aurum Sovereign

Shipping from Guam, USA. I prefer US addresses, but will consider shipping internationally on a case by case basis.

Quote from: Don Boyer on November 20, 2014, 12:51:37 AM

This is going to be a rather unusual project from this point out.  There will be no new backers unless someone backs out, so the only way to breathe more money into the project would be by enticing the present backers to spend more money...  I can't say I've seen a project like this before.

I haven't seen one like this before either. It's an interesting experiment. Looking forward to how it plays out.

It has to be a fun problem to be faced with. I have never seen another Playing Card Kickstarter sell out entirely before. What bigger compliment could there be?

Jackson wasn't the first to run a campaign with only limited tiers.  The Venexiana Gold campaign also did this,  and was completely sold out within the first day or so. However,  it had a shorter funding period of 4 days. Similar concept,  just that Jackson's campaign runs longer.

Anyone got Aurum White Gold or Laser Cut decks for sale/trade? I was moving my collection around today, and I knocked over a stack of decks that included these. Now I've dented two white golds and a laser cut. Stupid of me, I know. If I had to knock over something, I wish I knocked over a deck that's easier to find. Anyway, please pm me if you have either one and are interested in selling/trading. Thanks.

EDIT:

Initial offering price - White Gold $30, Laser Cut $100, willing to negotiate

Country -  Shipping from USA,  willing to buy from worldwide. 

Some decks I have for trade:
- Original Blue Blood by Uusi
- Sherlock Holmes LE Bakerstreet
- Sherlock Moriarty V1 special edition with sticker
- Sherlock Moriarty V2
- Sherlock Holmes Edition
- Sherlock Bakerstreet
- Federal 52 (both Bicycle and unbranded)
- Silver Certificate (both Bicycle and unbranded)
- Reserve Note (both Bicycle and unbranded)
- Branded Black Reserve Note
- Ornate Obsidian (both Bicycle and unbranded)
- Ornate V2 (all colors, both bicycle and unbranded)
- Origins Grail
- Origins First Edition
- Bohemia Red misprint deck without seal
- Bohemia Red misprint deck with seal
- Bohemia Blue misprint deck
- Ultimate Deck
- Seven Seas Deck
- Captain Deck
- Unbranded Treasure Chest Deck

Willing to trade combinations of these decks for the Aurum White Gold/Laser Cut. I am only interested in trading for an Aurum White Gold or Laser Cut, so please don't offer other decks for trade. I honestly never intended to trade any of the above decks, but this is a special case. I have other decks available for trade, so if you don't see a deck you're interested in on this list, please ask me about it.

+1 for Don's ability to make a constructive remark with out verbally vomiting useless gripping or whinning. Why on earth do you think that I still visit the Discourse?

I agree that Don makes really good constructive comments and I appreciate reading them because I learn a lot. I also admit that there are some people who criticize with using a much harsher tone and this rubs people the wrong way.  However,  I think it says a lot about someone who can handle even harsh criticism graciously by still responding in a calm manner. I think that will earn the person respect not only from the critic,  but also from the anyone who witnesses or reads it. It's easy for a person to be nice when a he/she is being praised,  but not so much when a he/she is being criticized. 

Quote

It's a shame to take them out of their tuck case since you have to break the seal, but frankly I don't think you really have any choice unless you want to end up with one solid piece of gold welded together.

I know I already said elsewhere, but you basically have to take them and (VERY!) carefully fan them out, and 'un-gunk' or un-stick them from each other, taking great care not to bend or otherwise "break the back" of the individual cards like you do when you shuffle them. Placing them back in their case is of course a minimum of care for these items, but I'd like to be able to display them inside the case but without the tucks on them

Saw this quote from Mike over at UC, can anyone else confirm this is how you should be treating gilded decks? Is he saying if you don't handle them then all the cards will eventually be stuck together?

Here's Linnea's response:

No, the deck will not stick together more the longer you wait on breaking it. Once the sizing (which is really just linseed oil) has set with the gold leaf the gilding process is essentially finished. Since traditional gilding is more an art form than a machined process, the drying time for the sizing can be anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months depending on the climate and conditions the deck is kept in (moist climates have longer drying times). But once the sizing has set, a hand gilded deck will break the same way in 3 months as it will in 10 years or more.

All gilded decks "stick" when you break them as the gilding has created a solid metal surface on the deck's edge. But after you thumb the cards apart, the deck is completely playable and has zero stickiness. The great thing about using this traditional method of gilding and solid gold leaf is that it allows the cards to remain flexible. I know one or two of you have already broken your decks and played with them and have mentioned that they work great. No one ever gilded a deck to make it more playable – its definitely an artistic, decorative process – but if done right you should be able to enjoy it in any casual game of cards you play. Of course, with constant, repeated use eventually the deck's gilding will begin to wear, but really all decks do if used regularly. And even when they wear, some of the very old gilded decks we have look super cool with that distressed gold edge.

Here is a longer explanation that Peter recently sent to a backer:

The gold (or silver) leaf is applied when the sizing is at a drying point – when it has just an ever so slight tack; almost dry but not quite. Once the gold (or silver) leaf is applied it deprives the sizing of oxygen and dramatically slows down the final drying/curing rate, thus making it important to wait a minimum of two to three weeks before handling or breaking the deck. Waiting longer is better as it ensures the sizing has completely cured. There are old historical English records of gilding drying times taking up to three months (of course there are many factors involved in drying time). It's not an exact science, really the entire process is about having a feel for it – hand gilding is an art form, not a production process.

One of the other things floating around out there is the "flaking off" of the gilding - this isn't going to happen with a traditionally gilded deck. To the best of our knowledge, all the other gilded decks that have been available in recent years have either been some sort of imitation gold or most likely foil stamped with gold foil or silver (not real gold or silver). I believe we are the first people to traditionally hand gild playing card decks in a long, long time. Artificial gold was patented and used on card decks some time in the 1920's and has been widely used in machines as well as hand gilding ever since. Its cheap and easy and makes sense if you are doing large production numbers.

We use gold leaf that has the highest amount of gold in it. The layer of gold leaf on our decks is incredibly thin, so of course it will wear the more you play with the deck - but this has always been the case. Gilded decks are somewhat of a novelty, definitely a collectors item and all collectors are different with how they interact with their collection. Some like to be able to use their collectables (by the way Linnea plays with one of the gilded decks here at the studio and after she broke it in, she says it plays great) and some just display them on a shelf, never to be used. Whatever your plans, gilding a deck is not done to make it more playable, it is again, essentially an artistic and highly decorative process, but if done right, they can be enjoyable to play with in casual card games and will actually look really cool as they wear.

Rob,  it's not the same one that Mike was referring to.  Mike was referring to Volantangel's stained glass deck. 

Top three (which I nominate, if we're going that route): Venexiana Gold, Aurum Laser Cut, and the Ultimate Deck