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Playing Card Chat ♠ ♥ ♣ ♦ => Magical Cardistry Bonanza => Topic started by: 10ofclubs on November 05, 2014, 05:26:12 PM
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I got my Sharp decks today. Does anyone know how to learn the marking system? Was I supposed to get an email or discover it for myself?
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I got my Sharp decks today. Does anyone know how to learn the marking system? Was I supposed to get an email or discover it for myself?
Did you try a riffle test? Most marking systems, particularly ones printed, written or scratched on the card, are vulnerable to the riffle test. Hold the deck in one hand, riffle it in the other and look for any section of the back that flickers like a flip book movie. The technique is sometimes referred to as "going to the movies." See the flickers, reverse-engineer the marks, easy peasy.
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I riffled and saw no movement.
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I riffled and saw no movement.
Hmm... Could require more careful observation. That can be a sign of a very well-hidden marking system. I've seen things like this before. For example, most people don't realize this but better than half of all Ellusionist decks have a hidden one-way mark...
Bust out three cards and a magnifying glass and have at it! (Or do a search since someone somewhere on the interwebs must have said something about it.)
Another option is to take photos of two or three backs and look at them mega-close on your monitor side-by-side. You might spot the differences.
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I got my Sharp decks today. Does anyone know how to learn the marking system? Was I supposed to get an email or discover it for myself?
Its not a marking system. Its a recolor. Email LPCC and they should send you the answer key. I remember reading that it typically takes up to six hours for your eyes to adjust to the discoloring.
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I got my Sharp decks today. Does anyone know how to learn the marking system? Was I supposed to get an email or discover it for myself?
Its not a marking system. Its a recolor. Email LPCC and they should send you the answer key. I remember reading that it typically takes up to six hours for your eyes to adjust to the discoloring.
I wish we had a smiley for someone scratching their head in confusion...
No matter how it's presented, if the card can be identified from the back in some manner and if all the cards' backs are slightly unique from each other, it is indeed a marked deck. Bits of color changing spots count as a marking system.
I'm going to move the discussion on Sharps to the Bonanza - marked decks are "magic" decks and we're specifically talking about the marking system.
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Per the legends email
Though inspired by and similar in look to David Blaine's White Lions playing cards, the marking method is completely different. These decks feature factory printed white on white 'shade'. A process which is extremely difficult and required extensive experimentation to perfect. This means that to the naked untrained eye, it is very difficult to see parts of the card back jump around or move when the 'riffle test' is performed, nor will the coating be affected like expensive decks which are juiced by hand.
It will take an average of 6 hours to train your eyes to read these cards. The colors are carefully chosen to aid in learning. Start with the blue deck, which has the heaviest shade, and experts can work their way to the green deck, which is the lightest read.
My sharps are on the way. Hope to get them in my hands soon. My tracking has not updated in a few days.
I got my Sharp decks today. Does anyone know how to learn the marking system? Was I supposed to get an email or discover it for myself?
What general area are you located?
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Per the legends email
Though inspired by and similar in look to David Blaine's White Lions playing cards, the marking method is completely different. These decks feature factory printed white on white 'shade'. A process which is extremely difficult and required extensive experimentation to perfect. This means that to the naked untrained eye, it is very difficult to see parts of the card back jump around or move when the 'riffle test' is performed, nor will the coating be affected like expensive decks which are juiced by hand.
It will take an average of 6 hours to train your eyes to read these cards. The colors are carefully chosen to aid in learning. Start with the blue deck, which has the heaviest shade, and experts can work their way to the green deck, which is the lightest read.
My sharps are on the way. Hope to get them in my hands soon. My tracking has not updated in a few days.
Shade systems are more difficult to spot - most people won't pick up on it unless you're under a powerful light source and very closely observing the cards, possibly with a magnifier. But yeah, it's a factory-printed marking system. It's not like juice or daub.
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I appreciate you moving my post, Don. I wasn't sure if there was already a topic for this deck and didn't find anything from searching.
Im familiar with the riffle test, you have mentioned it many times. But I was mostly asking because I wanted to know if I missed any sort of information LPCC sent out.
For the person who asked where I live, Northeastern Indiana. I think I actually received them on Tuesday, the fourth.
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For the person who asked where I live, Northeastern Indiana. I think I actually received them on Tuesday, the fourth.
Yea, that makes sense. You would receive your decks well before I would.
I've only had items shipped from Hong Kong 2 other times. I'm 1 for 2 on successful deliveries. I'm counting the days! :))
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The marking system is devious to say the least. ;D Drop LPCC an e-mail and they should be able to help you out.
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I will allow at least 2 - 3 weeks from the 31st before I start getting concerned. I'm just anxious is all. :)) I waited a few months for an opportunity to purchase them, I can wait a little longer. :))
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The marking system is devious to say the least. ;D Drop LPCC an e-mail and they should be able to help you out.
So the only way to learn it is to email them? Did they say that anywhere?
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So the only way to learn it is to email them? Did they say that anywhere?
There was an explanation listed on the product page before they sold out, but as far as I can tell the only way to get any info about it now is to e-mail them.
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I tried the Wayback Machine to see if it was captured there, but alas, it was not.
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I tried the Wayback Machine to see if it was captured there, but alas, it was not.
I found what I could of it on Google images but the original image is no longer available. While it shows the markings, we don't know the deck order. I'm sure someone could figure it out who has the deck in hand.
My Sharps came in today! :)) NO worries!
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Hmm I have been staring at the back of sharps deck for hours in the last 2 weeks and still can't see the colour difference or the lines.
Can someone direct or give me some hint on how to read the marking system?
I e-mail LPCC but they are saying that the marking system is no longer available after the decks were sold out :(
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Hmm I have been staring at the back of sharps deck for hours in the last 2 weeks and still can't see the colour difference or the lines.
Can someone direct or give me some hint on how to read the marking system?
I e-mail LPCC but they are saying that the marking system is no longer available after the decks were sold out :(
I recall it being some kind of shade system. Try looking for differences in the color from one part of the card back to the other. Riffle testing it might reveal the markings as well. You just need to look with a very sharp eye.
If the riffle test doesn't reveal anything, try taking a few photos of a couple of different card backs and looking at them blown up, examining a single corner of a few different cards side by side. You might catch the marking system that way if it's too subtle to easily detect on a riffle. The white signature NOC decks have a really devious marking system, nearly impossible to detect on a riffle unless you really know what to look for in the first place.
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I'm curious Don, do you have this deck? I broke mine out again today and I still can't seem to see the markings. I'm almost beginning to believe that this deck was just LPCC pulling a prank on us all.
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I'm curious Don, do you have this deck? I broke mine out again today and I still can't seem to see the markings. I'm almost beginning to believe that this deck was just LPCC pulling a prank on us all.
From my understanding there are people who managed to read the marking. Lawrence actually told me that I have to blur my eyes in order to see the marking. It will take some time to train your eyes before you are able to read the marking.
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I'm curious Don, do you have this deck? I broke mine out again today and I still can't seem to see the markings. I'm almost beginning to believe that this deck was just LPCC pulling a prank on us all.
From my understanding there are people who managed to read the marking. Lawrence actually told me that I have to blur my eyes in order to see the marking. It will take some time to train your eyes before you are able to read the marking.
I have heard that, but I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "blur". To go cross-eyed? To squint? To look past the card so its out of focus?
No offence intended, but "It just takes time to train your eyes" seems like a copout in place of an actual explanation. But then again, maybe I'm just thick headed.
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I'm curious Don, do you have this deck? I broke mine out again today and I still can't seem to see the markings. I'm almost beginning to believe that this deck was just LPCC pulling a prank on us all.
I don't own the deck, no. But "defocusing" your eyes is what I've heard as well, from some. It's the same thing you'd do for looking at one of those odd "3-D" images that don't require 3-D glasses - you set your focus for a distance either just short of or just past the object you're looking at, causing it to appear blurry.
Honestly, any deck I have to work that hard to read just isn't worth reading! :)) There are easier decks to work with out there.
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Although I don't have a sharp deck, from what I read the marking seems to use the same optical principles as a standard juice deck. Whereas they might be hard to read (but thats the main advantage, being deceptive) they are nice in gambling scenarios but not so useful for magic. Marked decks for the magic purpose are usually heavier marked.
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ah before I forget, exist there several versions of the sharp deck or are they all from one print run and marked?
thanks
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ah before I forget, exist there several versions of the sharp deck or are they all from one print run and marked?
thanks
From what I know, there is only 1 print run for the sharps deck
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Thank you
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Did anyone end up figuring out how the markings of the Sharps deck worked? I'm faced with the same challenge as others who have posted here: I own the deck, but can't figure out how the markings work, even with the help of the image in this post (http://www.playingcardforum.com/index.php?topic=7426.msg107184#msg107184) that apparently shows the shadings used on the cards:
The problem is that the image doesn't identify exactly which cards correspond to those 54 images, nor does it give any information about how to look for the shadings. Even knowing which cards those 54 images correspond to would be a helpful starting point. My deck didn't come with any instructions with it, and the publisher no longer provides these since they no longer sell the deck.
Interestingly this deck even won the popular vote for PCF's Best Marked Deck of 2014 (http://www.playingcardforum.com/index.php?topic=7384), so clearly there are people who have figured this out. I'm hoping that with the benefit of time, some of those who posted previously in this thread have figured out how it works and can give some advice, or that someone else can assist.
Any tips or info provided would be wonderful!
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I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to raise something about the method used for the markings of the Sharps deck.
The Brooklyn Playing Cards (printed around 2017) is considered a printed juice deck. Is this basically the same idea?
I first thought of this when reading the instructions for the Brooklyn deck, I came across this:
(https://i.imgur.com/BI6kP2a.jpg)
Notice the title of the book referred to: Nevil Maskelyne's "Sharps and Flats."
Could that explain the name of the Sharps deck perhaps?
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Even 9 years since their release, the Sharps are still remain my all time favourite deck of cards. I've probably got around 50 of them. Although I love the original classic stock that they're printed on, ultimately it's the marking system that makes it my favourite. Kind of gutted that a V2 has never been released.
I have the Brooklyn deck also... but honestly, I don't rate that deck too highly because it actually fails the riffle test. Although it does use something of a shade system it isn't done particularly well. I read somewhere that the guys that made the Brooklyn deck called it the greatest marking system of all time. In theory, maybe. But the execution... no chance brother.